Making Mavericks: Pamiętnik legendy surfingu, Frosty Hesson

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West Coast surfing legend Frosty Hesson shares his remarkable life story, the story of his extraordinary friendship with wunderkind Jay Moriarty, and his advice on how to be the best.

When Richard "Frosty" Hesson was first approached by a young Jay Moriarty in 1990, the skinny kid with a sparkle in his eye only wanted one thing from the icon: his help in becoming a better surfer. Hesson, one of the first to conquer the huge waves off northern California known as Mavericks, recognized that the kid "had a vision." Jay quickly demonstrated a resolve that reminded Frosty of his younger self, pursuing his goal with a seriousness far beyond his years. His attitude and work ethic earned Frosty's respect and, eventually, his friendship. Making Mavericks is the inspiring story of their father-son bond and of the challenges that made each of them who they were-surf legends, and the subject of the upcoming film Chasing Mavericks.In Making Mavericks, Frosty talks about his turbulent youth spent under difficult circumstances, with parents who tried to find a positive way to handle a child with a passion for water and a disregard for his own safety. Throughout his life he developed principles to live by, principles that would become the core tenets of his teaching philosophy. Most significantly, Frosty talks about how one of his best students, Jay Moriarty, used his philosophy to become a surfing phenomenon, and whose life inspired the phrase, "Live like Jay."Affecting and poignant, Making Mavericks is a celebration of Hesson's determination to live with joy and purpose, and his desire to help others do the same.

About the Author

Richard "Frosty" Hesson has been surfing the northern California waters since 1963 and was among the elite group of surfers who first began riding the colossal waves at Mavericks in the 1980s. He has trained hundreds of young people in the art of surfing. Among his students was Jay Moriarty, a soul surfer, a true champion, and one of the greatest ambassadors to the sport and lifestyle of surfing. Frosty continues to surf and follow his quest to help people achieve and accomplish their goals. He lives in Santa Cruz, California.

Vazba:	měkká
Počet stran:	320
Formát:	14 x 21 cm

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